First Flush Diverters: To Use One or Not?

An exploration of the first flush diverter by Jesse Savou, ARCSA A.P., Founder of BlueBarrel Rainwater Catchment Systems

Do you need a first flush diverter for your rainwater harvesting system?

A first flush diverter, sometimes called a roof washer, redirects the first flow of water from a storm away from your rain barrels or tanks.

That initial runoff washes dust, pollen, leaves, bird droppings, and other accumulated material from the roof.

The theory is straightforward: divert the dirtiest water so that cleaner rainwater enters your storage system.

It sounds like a good idea. However, many rainwater harvesting professionals do not recommend first flush diverters for every application.

At the American Rainwater Catchment Systems Association’s 2013 national conference, all five members of one professional panel said they preferred not to use them. In another session, keynote speaker Barnabas Kane of TBK Design noted that he had been hired to remove more first flush diverters than to install them.

First Flush Diverter
In this photo, the straight-pipe to the right of the tank is a first flush diverter. Water enters the straight-pipe first, and as sediments sink to the bottom, additional water spills over into the rain tank.

Why the hesitation with first flush diverters?

For systems that collect rainwater primarily for garden irrigation, a first flush diverter can add water loss, maintenance, and complexity without providing much practical benefit.

Here are six reasons to think carefully before installing one:

1. First flush diverters are difficult to size correctly

A first flush diverter must divert the right amount of water for optimal performance, and this is difficult if not impossible to do. There are many variables that go into determining the optimal size for a first flush diverter.

Variables include:

  • Roof size, slope, and material
  • Rainfall intensity and duration
  • Time since the last rain
  • Gutter and downspout capacity
  • Wind conditions
  • Local air quality
  • The amount of debris on the roof

Since most of these factors vary significantly even in a single location, there may be no single “correct” size for every storm.

If your first flush is too big, you limit your ability to fill your collection tanks. An oversized first flush diverter sends more water away from your storage system than necessary. This reduces the amount of rainwater you collect. Use a rainfall calculator to estimate how much water your roof can generate. However, you must subtract the water discarded by the first flush diverter—every time it rains.

If your first flush is too small, the unit will be overwhelmed and sediments will enter your primary storage anyway. In fact, if you have accumulated sediments in your first flush diverter from prior storms, you may even introduce extra particulates to your rain collection system. That brings us to the next concern: maintenance.

healthy plants and soils
The organic matter that accumulates on your roof between rains is good for plants and soils. Why divert the light application of fertilizer that nature offers for free? (See #5.)

2. First flush diverters require regular attention

Most well-designed rainwater catchment systems are relatively low-maintenance. A first flush diverter can become one of the most maintenance-intensive parts of the system.

To work properly, the chamber must drain or be emptied between storms. It also needs periodic cleaning so that sediment does not accumulate inside it.

When maintenance is neglected or falls behind, accumulated debris can worsen the problem the device aims to solve.

Some first flush diverters use a slow-release drain. This allows the chamber to empty automatically after each storm. However, these drains create a controlled leak. In areas with intermittent drizzle, light rainfall, or long dry periods, it may continue drawing water away from the storage tanks when every gallon matters.

3. A first flush diverter adds a potential failure point

First flush diverters are often made from exposed vertical pipe. This makes them more vulnerable to accidental impacts, sun and ultraviolet damage, and freeze-cracking than other parts of the rainwater catchment system.

First flush diverters are installed upstream of the rain barrels or tanks by design. This means a damaged or poorly functioning unit may divert too much water, or prevent water from reaching storage altogether.

This will result in slow fill rates, or even empty tanks.

4. Your rainwater system still needs debris screening

A first flush diverter is not a replacement for proper screening.

Many states have adopted code to establish simple standards for building safe and effective rain catchment systems.

One key requirement is that all system openings, including inlets, open tops, and vents, must be screened with 16th-inch mesh. This prevents leaves and debris from entering the storage vessels, and protects against mosquitoes and other small creatures.

A debris excluder, such as a Leaf Eater, screens rainwater before it reaches the downspout diverter and storage system. This keeps larger material out while allowing water to continue flowing toward the rain barrels.

 

Leaf Eater for rain barrels instead of First Flush
This photo features a BlueBarrel Rainwater Catchment System® with a Leaf Eater (a.k.a. "debris excluder") installed upstream of the standard downspout diverter. The white screened box prevents debris from entering the rain barrel system with durable, stainless steel mesh.
The black plastic inlet hose can be manually detached if the user wants to divert the first rain of the season.

The question, then, is whether a first flush diverter provides enough additional benefit to justify its water loss and maintenance requirements.

For non-potable systems used for irrigation, the required debris screening may provide the simpler and more practical solution.

BlueBarrel’s professionally-designed DIY BlueBarrel Rainwater Catchment System® uses closed, UV-resistant barrels with screened vents and inlets, and a downspout diverter that automatically manages inflow and overflow. A Leaf Eater can be added upstream where additional debris screening is desired.

 

5. Plants love the organic matter in the first rainfall

The season's first rainfall can contain pollen, dust, and decomposed organic matter.

For a non-potable system used primarily for garden irrigation, plants can benefit from the organic accumulation that the first flush delivers. Why go to the effort to divert what amounts to a nice fertilizer mix?

This does not mean that all roof runoff is suitable for every use. Roofing material, nearby trees, environmental contaminants, and the intended use of the water all matter.

However, garden irrigation systems do not always need to discard the beginning of every rainfall simply because it contains some organic matter.

6. Manually bypassing the first storm may be easier

In climates with a long dry season, the first rain of the year may wash an unusually large amount of dust and debris from the roof. You may decide that this particular runoff is worth diverting. That does not necessarily require a permanent first flush device.

With a well-designed downspout diverter (not to be confused with a "first flush diverter"), you can temporarily disconnect or remove the inlet hose. The first rainfall can then wash the roof while the runoff continues through the downspout.

Reconnect the system afterward, and it will capture subsequent storms without automatically discarding water each time.

This may be one of the world's greatest ironies: if an automatic first flush needs to be checked, cleared or emptied between storms, manually bypassing as described here requires less input than the "automatic."

So, do you need a first flush diverter?

Probably not.

You may decide against one when:

At BlueBarrel, we focus on practical, non-potable rainwater harvesting for outdoor use. Our pre-designed multi-barrel system emphasizes screened storage, automatic overflow management, expandability, and simple maintenance rather than adding a first flush diverter by default.

Before adding one, consider what you plan to do with the water and whether the potential water-quality benefit outweighs the water loss, maintenance, and added complexity.

The most important goal is to build a safe, effective system that captures and stores as much useful rainwater as possible, and doesn't cause headaches that discourage the user from enjoying the benefits of rainwater harvesting.

READY TO PLAN YOUR RAINWATER SYSTEM?

Explore the BlueBarrel Rainwater Catchment System®, and customize BlueBarrel's pre-designed, expandable system for your own home and garden:

Related resources

How to Winterize Rain Barrels

Image

Just in time for winter, we're here with tips on how to protect your rainwater catchment system (and drip irrigation gear!) from the frosty weather. Read on for three ways to winterize rain barrels, depending on your climate zone!

winterize rainbarrels snop-capped barrels

Snow-capped barrels! Photo courtesy of our customer, Tom, in Glastonbury, CT.

How to Winterize Rain Barrels:

We serve customers all over the USA and Canada, so winterization techniques will vary depending on your climate zone. (Click here for our nationwide network of barrel pickup locations.)

In general, you'll want to follow local protocols for outdoor plumbing in your region. Here are a few specifics:

IF IT'S COLD...

In areas with light, intermittent freezes, there may be no need to winterize at all. Water tanks, barrels, and even PVC plumbing lines will tolerate temperatures below freezing if the water doesn’t have time to freeze solid.

dripping faucet

A slow-drip can keep water from freezing short-term.

EXPERT TIP: If your pipes are unprotected and you fear they'll freeze and break on especially cold nights, you can leave a slow-drip in the faucet or drain valve. Moving water freezes at much colder temperatures than still water, so a slow-drip will offer some protection. Just don't forget to shut off the tap when the sun comes out in the morning!

IF IT'S C-C-COLDER...

In colder climates, plumbing lines can be insulated with standard pipe insulation, available in hardware stores and home improvement outlets.

If you are insulating other outdoor pipes, you should insulate the underplumbing on your BlueBarrel System®, too, and use insulated faucet covers, available in our online store, to protect your valves.

If you have power-supply nearby, you can use a pipe heating cable under your insulation for extra protection. Our pipe heat cables have a built-in thermostat that turns on at 37 degrees F, and off at 50 degrees F.

Check our online store for pipe heating cables and insulated faucet covers.

Pipe Insulation

Standard pipe insulation can keep pipes from freezing.  Pair with pipe heating cable, available in our online store, for extra protection.

Winter Pipe Heating Cable
Insulated rain barrel pipes

David insulated his pipe and faucet expecting a cold snap in Austin, TX.

IF IT'S C-C-C-C-COLDEST...

In areas that experience deep freezes (e.g. where you can ice skate on the local lake!), drain and detach rain barrels and tanks from downspouts during the coldest months of the year. To protect all parts from freezing temperatures, make sure ball valves are fully drained as well.

We have winter covers available under Tools & Accessories in our online store.* These will restore your downspout to normal function when you disconnect your rain barrels. Order winter covers along with a 1-1/2" twist plug (also available from our Tools & Accessories menu) to cap the exposed inlet hole in your barrel.

Just don't forget to reattach in time to catch the spring rains after the danger of deep freeze has passed!

See BlueBarrel's Maintenance & Operations Manual for more details about weatherizing and maintaining your BlueBarrel Rainwater Catchment SystemTM.

*The winter cover is compatible with our current downspout diverters. If you ordered your RainKit® after August 15, 2015, then it will be compatible. If you ordered before then, to disconnect your diverter, simply remove the inlet hose and plug the hole—both in the diverter and in your barrel—with the 1" Expandable Twist-Plugs, also available in our online store.
rain barrel plug

1.5" Expandable Twist Plug caps the barrel inlet.

Winter Cover

Winter cover restores downspout when disconnected.

Disconnected rain barrels

Annette disconnected her barrels from the downspout for the snowy winter in Vancouver, WA.

Winterizing Drip Irrigation Lines:

Many of our customers pair their rain barrels with a gravity-fed drip irrigation system to distribute rainwater to their gardens. In the colder climate zones, we need to winterize drip irrigation systems as well. Drip irrigation line is more flexible than PVC and not quite as vulnerable to freeze damage. That said, all materials suffer over time with extreme weather exposure.

Rolling up and storing irrigation lines during your off-season will prolong it's life, but it may not be absolutely necessary.

At the very least, make sure your irrigation lines are fully drained if you're expecting hard-freezes. If your system has an obvious low-point (or points), you can drain the line from there. On a flat site, lift the line a few feet at a time until all water discharges from the line's end.

Whether or not you decide to roll up your line, if you are draining your rain barrels to prevent freeze damage (see above), you should also remove any ball valves, filters, and timers that connect to your irrigation line. Shake out remaining water, and store those for the season—the moving parts can get damaged if they contain water that freezes.

Gravity-fed irrigation systems are remarkably simple and don't usually include pumps, pressure regulators, or vacuum breakers, so you have less to worry about than with a pressurized drip irrigation system. But if you have a pressurized system with more bells and whistles, here's a resource from Penn State Extension with full winterization guidelines for drip irrigation systems.

Want to build your own BlueBarrel System?

Visit bluebarrelsystems.com to size and site your BlueBarrel SystemTM. Then enter our Online Store to customize your RainKitTM and find recycled barrels for local pickup.

Check out our photo gallery for inspiration, and contact us if we can help you with your order as you get ready to collect winter's rains!

DIY Files: Can I Stack Rain Barrels? Everything You Need to Know

It's one of our most frequently asked questions: Can I stack rain barrels vertically?

The quick answer is yes. But there's a but. A big one.

Vertical Stacked Rain Barrels

This isn't an approach we'd recommend. Do you know why? Read on!

While the BlueBarrel Rainwater Catchment System® in its classic form consists of one long line of barrels (you choose how many), some people have vertical space they want to utilize.

Barrels can be stacked to maximize space, but with each barrel weighing upwards of 500 lbs when full, it's not possible to support the weight of one barrel directly on another.

As a second point, if you wish to enjoy the advantages of an under-plumbed design like BlueBarrel's, you'll need space between each layer to allow for the plumbing, and proper ventilation.

To illustrate our recommendations for a successful stacked-barrel design, we'll highlight two examples, sent by customers Michael Nunn of Daytona Beach, Florida; and Jill Waltman of Auburn, Illinois.

Thanks for sharing, Mike and Jill!

How to stack rain barrels

With Mike's well-detailed diagrams, we were able to work with him to refine the plan and make sure he received all the necessary pieces in his custom-packed BlueBarrel DIY RainKit® to build his custom design to stack rain barrels.

Vertical rain barrels

This diagram, provided by BlueBarrel customer, Michael Nunn, shows the key features of a safe and efficient vertical rain barrel setup.

Here are the key features of his design:

  • Each layer of barrels is supported on its own foundation. At 500 lbs per barrel (when full), a structurally sound foundation is important to support the weight of each barrel.
  • Each layer has its own downspout connection. BlueBarrel's DIY RainKits include a downspout diverter that handles inflow as well as overflow. If installed with a level hose as shown, water diverts into the barrels until they are full. When barrels reach capacity, excess water falls through an internal spillover to exit the downspout as normal. There's no on/off switch for this; it happens automatically with this simple but brilliantly designed piece. In Mike's case, the second diverter will catch most of this overflow to fill the bottom row of barrels.
  • There is a shutoff valve between levels. Each barrel in a multi-barrel system needs a vent so air can escape as barrels fill with fresh water. If all barrels are connected via the underplumbing and served with one diverter at the top, water from upper levels will push out through the vents on the lower levels, keeping them from filling. Note the placement of the isolation valve. The valve will remain closed while barrels fill so that both levels can hold water. As Mike uses his water, the top barrels will drain first. Once the top set is empty, he can open the valve to access the water from the lower level. (Another possibility is to have a separate outlet on each level, so that no valve is necessary. In other words, build two separate BlueBarrel Systems, one on top of the other.)

Compliments to Mike for a job well done, and for sharing images with us as well. Here's his finished project, now keeping his koi fish pond topped up with clean fresh water between Florida storms:

 

Another example

Jill used Mike's example to stack rain barrels for a community garden install in Auburn, IL. Many businesses and individuals dedicated time and resources to get this BlueBarrel System in place, and doubled the amount of water they could store by stacking rain barrels.

stacked rain barrels
stacking blue barrels

Jill says:

"The article on your site was a huge help in designing all of this.

"Here is our plumbing sketch. It shows where we placed all the valves. We needed to make sure we could isolate the top barrels from the bottom (when the bottom gets full) as well as isolate sections if we desired. We have 1200 square feet of roof feeding into the system.

"Thanks for assisting in making this happen!"

stack rain barrels diagram

Why not lay rain barrels on their sides?

stack rain barrels

What's wrong with this picture?

Here is a design that is commonly found on the internet. Why not do it like this?

There are a number of reasons we recommend the underplumbed design instead:

  • With the bung openings offset a few inches from the edge of each barrel, laying drums on their sides leaves a substantial "belly" in the bottom of each barrel where water cannot be accessed. Multiply that loss by the number of barrels in your stack and that's a lot of inaccessible water.
  • In addition to leaving water inaccessible, this belly will collect a sludge layer that can create turbidity in the barrels, leading to a heavy load of particulates in the water at the outlet. An underplumbed design flushes most sediments in real time, leading to naturally cleaner water. (Click here to learn why you want those little organic particulates to get to your garden rather than collecting in your barrels!)
  • With no ability to vent any barrels but the top one, and a narrow connection from barrel to barrel, it is unclear whether the bottom barrel will fill smoothly. A vent hole is necessary to allow air to escape as water enters, but unless carefully monitored and controlled, a vent hole in the bottom barrel would allow water to escape, preventing upper barrels from holding water.

Got a special situation, or need help customizing your BlueBarrel System? The knowledgeable team here at BlueBarrel is happy help you for a successful experience with rainwater harvesting. Give us a holler! We're here to help.